5 Real Tips for Travelling in South America

Tortuga Bay, Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

1. Be scared, but not too scared

There were some cities where I didn't go out past 9pm for fear of what lurks in the dark. There were hostels with signs up warning of thefts on the hostel grounds. There were travellers with stories of being held up at knife-point in the mornings, and even being mugged with a screwdriver. And more than one story of over-friendly locals turning sour. There were a few taxi rides where it occurred to me that the taxi driver could be taking me anywhere, down any alley way, and could hold me up and take everything. There were even a few times when I took the memory card out of my camera and shoved it in my pocket, to save my photos in case someone stole my purse. There were dangers, there were fears, and there were moments when I really didn't know if everything was okay. Being a little bit scared helped me stay safe, make wise decisions, and keep my guard up when I needed it.

Lake Titicaca, Peruvian/Bolivian border

2. Go with someone

Travelling with my friend helped a lot, as our two brains together worked well to keep us aware and safe, and paying attention to the things around us. She and I both had moments of being scared, and usually the other could logically calm down the situation.

We met a lot of couples on this trip, and met far few solo travellers in South America than we had met in Southeast Asia or Europe. We both experienced a few weeks of solo time in South America, and agreed that it was safer and much more fun to travel South America with a friend.

La Paz, Bolivia

3. Buy everything

Alpaca sweaters, blankets, scarves, musical instruments, coffee, handmade necklaces, shoes, teacups, ponchos, pillow cases, friendship bracelets, jackets, toys, statues...

Cusco, Peru

4. Trust your instincts

When I arrived by night bus in Buenos Aires by myself early in the morning, I planned on taking a taxi into the city centre. I walked around and checked out my options for "secure taxis" (a safe taxi service company), and also checked out the normal taxi area. When I came outside, a man greeted me and asked "taxi?" and I said yes. I then noticed a row of taxis ready to go, and the man shook his arm no, and told me that all those taxi drivers were on their coffee breaks. I then thanked him and went inside to get a secure taxi.

Why did I do that?

Because, if something seems too outlandish to be true, it probably is. [Were ALL those taxi drivers really taking their coffee breaks at the same time, making the man talking to me the ONLY available taxi driver? I think not.] When strangers come up to talk to you or offer you things, evaluate their behaviour, and listen to your gut if you get a bad feeling. I listened to my instincts on this trip, and more than a few times I'm certain it saved me from a potentially bad situation.

Pichilemu, Chile

5. Go to South America now

Peru has been a hotspot for South American travel for decades, and in high season up to 5,000 visitors might see Machu Picchu in a day. Colombia, however, is still not too touristic, and neither is Bolivia (beyond La Paz and the Uyuni desert). These two countries will become more popular as more people visit, and they too will become more established stops on the South America gringo trail. And Ecuador? Who knows if tourists will continue to be allowed to visit the Galapagos islands in large numbers. If you go now, you can still feel the warmth of Colombian hospitality, see the magic of people walking in traditional hats and clothes in La Paz, and come face to face with the wildlife of the Galapagos. And yes, Peru is touristy, but it's so beautiful you wouldn't want to miss it.

If you're reading this, you've already got some interest in South America, so why not make 2013 the year to see the Andes in real life?

I Got Mugged in South America

Exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art, Santiago, Chile

It happened. After 6 months of travelling and listening to other people's stories of muggings, it happened to me.

On the afternoon of the incident, I went to the Museum of Contemporary Art in Santiago, Chile. I had a fun time walking through exhibitions of light and sound, as well as getting inspired for my own creative endeavours. After an hour in the museum, I came outside to a sunny staircase where I had seen a girl sitting earlier. I thought to myself "why not have a seat and soak up some sun" and took a seat on the stairs. There were others around, sitting on the grass nearby; couples kissing, friends eating, people biking. I felt so relaxed and happy, and warmed by the light of the sun on my skin.

After a few moments of quiet relaxation, it occurred to me that I should confirm the location of the hostel of my friend whom I was meeting that evening. Without much thought, I pulled out my phone and swiped through my pictures to find the map. Happy to be seeing this old friend again, (who I first met in Peru, then again in Argentina, who I would now see in Chile!), I was in my own world.

*SWOOSH*

As fast as a gust of wind, a guy ran up behind me, grabbed my phone, and ran down the stairs. What was in my hand a moment ago as a tool was not in my hand anymore.

All action, not thought.

I yelled "No! No!" and ran down the stairs after him. "Stop! Help me! He stole my phone! Stop!" I yelled as I ran after him. Someone got up from the grass and chased after him. I chased after the both of them, still yelling for help. They ran around the block to the front of the Museum of Fine Arts, and when I turned the corner after them, they were both gone. Onlookers wide-eyed and stunned stared at me, and I yelled "Where are they!?" and I was pointed onwards. I kept running, and realized my shirt had come unbuttoned during the chase. Holding my shirt closed with one hand, I kept running to find the man who was helping me standing next to a parked car. I ran up to him, coming to the realization that the thief was gone, along with my phone. All the photos, videos, and memories of South America, gone in a second.

As I reached him, out of breath and panting, I asked "where is he?" and the man pointed down at the car. I walked around to the other side of the car to see the thief crouched down by the front wheel. He looked like a little mouse who had stolen a piece of cheese. The man then said, "Give her back her phone!" in a fantastic display of heroism. The thief pulled the phone from his pocket, and handed it up to me while saying "I'm sorry, I'm sorry" repeatedly.

My phone was in my hands again.

Instinctively, I hugged the man who helped me, and still catching my breath, thanked him. "I don't speak much Spanish, but thank you" I uttered through coughs, in broken Spanish. He replied that it was nothing, and we walked away from the parked car to the front of the museum. Deer-in-headlights stares from onlookers continued, and I realized again in that moment that my shirt was still undone. I buttoned it up as two friends walked up to the man who helped me. Spoken in rapid Spanish, I heard a re-cap of events which ended with "You got it back!?"

I made more attempts at a Spanish thank you:

"Without your help, I wouldn't have a phone anymore." + "I can't run fast." + "I want to buy you a present."

"A present?" He laughed, and I gave him another hug and a kiss on the cheek. I said to his friends "Keep him, he's a gentleman."

"Well, he's my brother, so yes I will keep him." His sister replied, and we laughed.

With that, we parted ways, and I sat on a bench in front of the museum counting my lucky stars. Or my four leaf clovers. Or my guardian angels.

I also contemplated my stupidity to chase after a potentially dangerous person. He could have had a knife, or a group of friends waiting for him, or a car... anything could have happened. I was just so lucky that the thief was alone, and that we were able to stop him.

As a female traveller, I am obligated to think about the worst situations that can occur on the road, both as a foreign person, and as a female. I also think about what I would do if in one of those situations. I've always maintained that if I was in a position to do so, I would draw attention to myself by yelling.

I realized my strategy was a good one in this situation. Yelling for help brought help to me. People looked, and they knew something was wrong. Despite the fact that only one person actually got up and chased him with me, it only took the two of us stop the thief.

I had been in Chile for two weeks prior to this incident, and in those two weeks I felt a great increase in quality of living compared to the other major cities of South America. Santiago has big shiny buildings, people using iphones on the subway, and it felt very world class to me. For this reason, I acted in ways I hadn't acted in place like Peru or Ecuador, where I felt less personal security. I never would have sat in a public park in Lima with my iphone out, and I let my guard down in Santiago.

After this mugging, I was reminded again that I'm not invincible. No matter how comfortable I feel in a place, I have to remember that an iphone is a very attractive piece of technology for someone in the market to steal. I never should have sat in public with my phone out, especially so nonchalantly on the stairs of a museum in a park.

I wish all of the other stories of muggings that I heard about while on this trip had happy endings like mine.

Thanks to you, gentleman stranger.

Kittens of South America

Hostel kitten named "Pisco" living at our hostel in Huanchaco, Peru

Resident kitten at the Dive Little Corn scuba shop in Nicaragua

Worn out by the constant attention of all the kids at Luz Del Mundo in Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Kitty who may or may not have a nun for a mum, in Cali, Colombia

I am a cat lover, which is wonderful when I'm at home with my parents cats and can snuggle them to my heart's content. But, as a traveller who lives abroad, it's not easy to have a pet. I have lived for the past 6 years without a cat, and sometimes I really miss having a purring ball of fuzz in my arms.

Lucky for me, South America is full of kittens and cats.

And, unlike street cats in Korea, they are friendly and approach strangers easily.

I've made lots of friends on this trip, and shared a lot of laughs with people I know I'll be seeing again. On this same path, I've met a lot of animals: cats, dogs, horses, sheep, cows, pelicans, iguanas, sharks, sea and giant turtles, and penguins, among others.

Meeting animals on travels can help to bring you into the moment and keep you there, as you interact with an animal for a few moments. In those moments, it doesn't matter where you're from, they won't ask. You transcend your nationality and your budget and all the plans you have, and simply connect with an animal as you always have when at home or in other places.

A purring cat in your lap is beautiful and magical, be it in a beach town hostel in Peru or in your own bed.

What are your experiences with meeting animals on the road?

*This post is dedicated to my parents' cat named Beary, who passed away at the age of 18 while I was travelling this fall. I heard from my mom that he was purring right up until his last breath, so I hope he is resting in peace.*

The next year of my life

A happy afternoon spent wine tasting in Mendoza, Argentina

Sitting here in my hostel in Mendoza, I try to envision the next year of my life. It's harder to imagine than it used to be.

Before arriving in South America, I was certain I would return to Korea after finishing this trip. I had a boyfriend there, and full intentions to return to him and the life I have there. Plans involving living in Seoul, working at another Education University, continuing to improve my Korean skills, and deepening my friendships and the life I love in Korea.

That was before South America.

That was before these magical countries captured a place in my heart that I never knew was there. A place that loves the warmth of red wine, the wild beats of salsa, the romance of speaking Spanish, and the vast mountain and ocean landscapes. As I spend my days here amazed by the sheer diversity of natural beauty before me, part of me wonders why I wouldn´t try living here.

The other part of me, the Asia-loving, chopstick weilding, funny sticker booth photo-taking, rice field admiring, crowded subway riding, Korean speaking, public sauna attending part of me... it longs for Asia, and in particular, Korea. I miss it so deeply, and only the Korean phrase "그리워요" seems to express my longing appropriately.

Sometimes, when you travel the world, you end up so positively open that you can fall in love with almost any place. It´s just a case of finding the place which will make you the happiest. Here, as I continue to travel, I need to start making that choice.

Impossible Possibles in Uyuni

I came face to face with a dinosaur (who I outran)

I played football with a soccer ball ten times my size

We hid quietly in someone's running shoe until they came back to find it

Brenna stepped on our new Canadian friend

I kissed a life-size teddy bear where everyone could see

I shrunk my friends and held them in my hands

And we decided to march into a Pringles container, too.

The Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia is the scene for all these possibilities, with crystal white salt until bright blue sky horizons. The blinding sun and reflections off the salt made it very hard to see the preview screen for our cameras, so we couldn't be sure whether we nailed the photos or not until we reviewed them in the car. Once we looked at them, we all laughed and high fived that we managed to capture some impossible moments flawlessly.

Even after an hour of photo taken, we weren't ready to leave the wild landscape.

Travel can bring you to the most amazing places you never even knew existed in the world, and I am so glad I was able to visit this incredible scenery. I'm also glad to know that sometimes, the impossible IS possible with a little creativity.

A Guide to Hostel Etiquette from Expatkerri

Having slept in over 100 hostels in cities all over Asia, Europe, and Central and South America, I feel I've experienced all sides of hostels. I've slept in the comfy 4-bed female dorm all the way up to the 36-bed mixed dorm, and I hereby offer my 10 simple rules for hostel dorm etiquette. Obey these recommendations, and you'll be the change I want to see in the hostelling community.

Creative mural in Kokopelli Hostel in Cusco, Peru

1. Remember that bunkbeds are for two people.

When I am sleeping above or below you, if you shuffle and re-make your bed at 2am, I shuffle just as much. If you are on the top bunk, try to prioritize and organize your necessary items so that you climb down and up as little as possible. If you're on the bottom bunk, please don't lean your bag on the ladder or else I will fall on it when I try to step down in the dark.

2. No sex, end of story.

Don't do it. When you come home drunk, and it seems like you and your new dude are the only two souls in the universe, take your love somewhere else. None of us need to hear or see your drunken lovemaking, nor do we want to be woken up by the creaking of the bunkbed. Get a room, or at the very least go to the bathroom.

3. Don't slam the door.

Be aware of your surroundings, and the space you share with others. When you slam the door, and we are still sleeping, it wakes us and scares us, and you give us the impression that we made you angry. Consider the people around you, and take an extra second to close the door quietly.

4. Prepare for bedtime in advance.

If you know you're going out, and will likely come back after others are sleeping, prepare the things you need for bed before you leave. Get out your pyjamas, toothbrush, towel, alarm, water, and anything else that you might need. Bonus points for those who bring a torch with them and use it instead of turning on the lights at 3am.

5. Take your bag outside if you need to shuffle.

When leaving for an early morning bus or flight, there's no question that you'll be up before others. The most courteous way to deal with an early morning pack up is to quietly take your whole bag out of the room, and to re-pack it, zip it, and shuffle all your belongings once you're in the common area. This way the room remains quiet, and you spare the sanity of the people still sleeping.

6. Quick bathroom use.

Many hostels offer only one bathroom for 6-10 people. The bathroom takes on inexplicable importance to the people in the room, and the time you use it should be respected. When you take a shower, be quick, especially in the morning. Leave the bathroom right after your shower in case someone has been waiting to use it. Try to make use of mirrors in the room and other nearby facilities (if there are any) so that others may use the bathroom in the room freely. By all means, do not spend 20 minutes in the shower at 8:00 am and another 20 minutes with the water off locked in the bathroom (unless you like being glared at).

7. Throw away your plastic bags.

The rustling, shuffling, and crinkling of plastic bags is the traveler's enemy. I realize the usefulness of such bags, and use several of them in my backpack, but they are not holding my clothes nor my toiletries. Instead of plastic bags, choose mesh bags for toiletries and cotton sacks for your clothes. These bags are much quieter, and no one will wake up when you scramble looking through the bag to find your other sock. If you find yourself needing to crinkle and shuffle a plastic bag, refer to tip number 5.

8. Turn off your snooze.

I am a fan of the snooze button, and use it every morning when I get ready for work. However, when I travel, I am sharing my room with other people who might not want to hear my Marimba ringtone every 5 minutes for the 30 minutes it takes me to get out of bed. Set your alarm to ring once, and don't hit snooze.

9. Mind your voice.

I have been travelling with my best friend in many countries around the world, and we've shared many a hostel room together. It's tempting to engage in conversation when we catch each others' eyes while others are sleeping, but instead of whispering, we motion to go outside and have our conversations there. First of all, when you whisper in a room, if your friend can hear you, so can other people. Secondly, everyone doesn't need to hear about what happened last night or why you lost the bus tickets. Take your friend outside to the common room and talk there.

10. Be courteous.

When you enter a hostel, you are entering a shared space with other travellers. When swapping stories of where you've been or where you're going, don't assume since you've been travelling longer or in more exotic locations that you are the better traveller. A traveller on a trip for a week is the same as a traveller on a trip for a month or for a year. We are all travelling, and we all deserve to enjoy our time in the hostels that we choose. Be grateful that you've crossed paths with other travellers, and give them the same respect you would expect them to give you.

What crazy hostel moments have you had? Leave a comment sharing your stories, and write your other tips for hostel etiquette!

The likely (and less likely) things I miss from Korea

I've been away from Korea for 4 months now, and I constantly think of things I would love to be able to do if I were in Korea still. From naked scrub-downs to weddings to tears to taxis, here's a list of all the things I miss about Korea:

1. I miss jjimjilbangs

The jjimjilbang is a place of magic, where you can sit in a sauna, soak in hot baths, sleep overnight, and have a facial and a full body scrub down all for less than 30,000 won. After living in Korea for 4 years, I've really embraced the culture of daily exfoliation and scrubbing. I have the exfoliating cloths that they use in my own shower, and enjoy doing it myself, but I usually shell out 18,000 won a month to have the amazing ladies scrub me down. Now that I'm travelling, I don't have access to the amazing scrubbing women, nor to the saunas of Korea. I've tried going to spas to find similar treatments, but everything is far too expensive, and just not the same as Korea. Sigh, my skin needs a good scrub.

[Sidenote: My Korean friends often laugh at me when I say "jjimjilbangs", because I have added the plural "s" to a Korean word. Most Koreans have never heard this word used in English, and laugh hard when they hear it with an "s" at the end. So I implore you to make them laugh, and use the word "jjimjilbangs" next time it comes up.]

2. I miss weddings

My good friends Evan and Rachel just tied the knot in Seoul this weekend. My other friend Himchan (in the above image) married his sweetheart in June. The longer I live in Korea, the deeper my friendships become, and the closer we get to the perfect marrying age. When I first moved to Korea, I was missing my friends' weddings from home, but now that I am away from Korea, I am missing my Korean friends' weddings too. And there's just something about the performance and efficiency of Korean weddings that makes me really love them.

3. I miss my job

I was very lucky in Korea, as I was hired by Jinju National University of Education as one of their conversation instructors in 2010. As soon as I arrived on campus, I was greeted by bright smiles of the students and staff of this small university. Not long after, I felt like I was a part of the small community, and saw a few students and staff become truly close friends of mine. I worked there for 2 years, watching freshman grow into responsible sophomores, watching seniors take on their first teaching jobs, and watching my friendships with co-workers blossom into friendships for life. Upon finishing my contract, I had farewell dinners with students where tears were shed, tears of joy for being grateful to have met, but also tears of having to say goodbye. I am still in contact with a few students, and can't wait for the day when I can visit them again on campus and see how much they have grown.

4. I miss Asia

When I wake up in the morning in my apartment in South Korea, I feel happy to know I am in Asia. Whenever I've been away from Korea for a while, upon arriving back at Incheon airport, I feel like everything is in order again, like I'm in the right place in the world. Now that I've been away for 4 months, and that I'm not sure what my next job will be, I'm fantasizing about flying back into Seoul and starting a new job at a university there.

5. I miss sidedishes

When you eat in a restaurant in Korea, even when eating fast food, your meal is served with sidedishes. Sidedishes usually include kimchi, seaweed, mushrooms, cabbage, fish cakes, and other surprises. When you finish a sidedish you like, it will be refilled free of charge. I love this culture of generosity and sharing, and I long for Korean sidedishes everytime I eat a meal here in South America.

5. I miss the Youtube Community

It's no secret that Youtube is a big part of my life. As a big part of my Youtube life exists in Korea, a lot of my good friends are fellow vloggers. When in Korea, I love collaborating with other vloggers, and featuring them in my videos. I also am a co-organizer of the Seoultube community get togethers, and I am sad to say that I won't be in Korea for the upcoming Seoultube annual gathering in October.

6. I miss taxis

As I am travelling now, taxis are a very common mode of transportation for me. We take them from the bus stations to hostels, and sometimes take them to and from destinations in the city when we don't know the way. However, South America is known for its dodgy taxis and for scamming tourists, and so taking taxis can be a challenge. In Peru, I asked my local friends how to find a safe taxi, and was advised that the locals just look at the driver and try to choose taxi drivers with kind faces. Alone at 9pm as a female in Lima, it's hard to find a taxi driver with a nice looking face. When I stand on the street, gazing into the distance for a taxi, I miss the safety of Korean taxis, and how cheap they are. If only I could bring Korean taxi drivers and prices to Bolivia...

7. I miss set prices

In South America, and in particular in Peru, it seems that prices are nearly always double or more for tourists than they are for locals. Consider Machu Picchu: entrance for foreigners is 128 soles, nearly 8 times the price that Peruvians pay. My Peruvian friends also told me that many shopkeepers will simply double the real price when I ask, simply because of the way I look. Another example is the price of the taxi that I took to meet my Peruvian friends: I paid 20 soles on my way there (a price which I agreed to), and my Peruvian friends negotiated a taxi for just 8 soles for the same route back home. I don't mind paying a bit more as a tourist, though, since I am a guest and I don't speak enough Spanish to negotiate prices. Though price changes happen in Korea sometimes too, I still miss being in a place where I know the approximate price and value of things, and also in a place where many prices are fixed.

Korea may not win on the clean air scale, and might not be tops on the personal space scale either, but it has a lot of great things going for it. The above are just a few of the many things which make my life in Korea very comfortable and enjoyable.

All of the photos in this post come from Expatkerri's Instagram.

Atypically on Machu Picchu

My life is here now, in this hostel in this city, or on this bus, staring out this window.

This past weekend, my life brought me to a place that has been drawing me to South America for years... the magical mountains and ruins of Machu Picchu. My experience at Machu Picchu was more enlightening and less touristic than I might have previously expected, though.

Hiking up a mountain without words, with wind, and breath, and panoramic views of the valleys below leads the mind to places not easily reached when among the throws of daily living. I began contemplating my place in the world, the things I have done, the things I want, and the things I need in my life, as well as the people in it.

I've now ended a relationship with the man who has been closest to me for the last nine months. Sometimes, the road makes life so viceral, and so immediate, that holding on to a love from home becomes too difficult, too trying.

When sitting above the ruins of Machu Picchu, looking down over the mountains below, we were greeted with a beautiful sight. The ruins were visible to us, and within a moment would be hidden behind a layer of clouds blown in. In another moment, the clouds would lift, and the ruins would be visible again. Am I not like the ruins, and the people in my life not like the clouds, passing through? Some clouds linger and stay in our view, while others move past to greet the next mountain tops.

Physically exhausted, and philosophically dazed, I leave Peru in three days. I hope to enter Bolivia with a renewed sense of purpose and determination, knowing that I have followed my intuition.

Even though travel is often sold as an escape from real life, it can also offer a startling perspective on your own life, which is invisible to you when you're in the middle of living it.

For this new perspective on my own reality, travel, I thank you.

Riding Sand Dunes in Peru

 

As our taxi pulled up to the tiny village of Huacachina, after a long day of bus riding from Nazca, I was taken aback by the view. I felt like I was suddenly in the Arabian deserts, worlds away from the beaches of Mancora and the historic lights of Lima.

 

 

Without even trying, I found myself next to an oasis in the middle of the deserts of Peru.

The next natural step was to get in a huge 4x4 with a wild engine and ride the sand dunes like a rollercoaster. And then, once at the top, to ride head-first down the dunes on a small sandboard.

 

It was the sandiest day of my life.

Despite still finding sand in my pockets now 2 weeks later, it remains one of the best activites I've done in Peru.

From the top of a giant pile of sand, I found myself longing for more of this madness. Longing for more of these days where I wake up and don't know that a few hours later I'll have sand in my teeth and a big grin on my face after riding down a steep sand dune. Longing for more moments of life where I can just jump in head-first and feel the wind (and sand) on my skin.

Whales and Dreams in Peru

5 days into Peru, I've already completed one of my biggest dreams. Ever since I can remember, I've wanted to see whales with my own eyes. From reading magazines to watching underwater National Geographic documentaries, I've been imagining whale watching since I was little.

I didn't know how to conceive of the biggest animals on Earth. How big were they really? Bigger than a school bus? Bigger than my bedroom? I had no sense of the relative size of a whale.

That was, until we were sitting at lunch with a view over the sea on my birthday, and someone pointed out to the horizon and showed us a big white splash. They said it was a whale, far out there, breaching in the deep seas. First one, then another. We just stared at the horizon as giant splashes appeared and disappeared in the distance. It was beautiful to see them, even from afar. I hadn't known that Mancora, Peru, was the best place to whale watch on the west coast of South America, nor did I realize that we were there in the right season. It was decided then and there that we would go whale watching the next day.

It was an early morning. Our boat, small and slow, brought us out to the wavy seas, and we waited with our cameras in hand.

Though I was optimistic, I remembered the time I tried to whale watch with my mom and sister in Cape Breton in 2006, and no whales surfaced for us. Part of me wondered whether the whales would come up for us that day.

It wasn't long before the whales were up too. As they surfaced for air, we pointed and loved each moment. Precious giants, sharing a breath with us.

Still dreaming of whales, my next dream is to see one under water when I scuba dive...

Have you ever seen whales, or do you want to?

inbetweens and constant things

quick moments with the hummingbirds of cocoura, colombia

the reality of travelling for an extensive period is that many of the fundamental elements of your life become fleeting.

the friends you meet are exciting and strange, but as they are near the end of their trip and you at the beginning of yours, the time your paths cross is limited.

the great hostel bed that you find, (with fluffy pillows and a heavy duvet the way you like it), is only yours for a few nights.

the souvenirs, alluring and colourful, become tokens of places and moments which we can't keep living.

the delight you find on a new island of beautiful creatures and crystal clear seas brings joy to your heart, and makes you so happy to be there, but not without a tinge of sadness that it can't last forever.

the best plate of guacamole of your life makes your tastebuds leap for lemon heaven, and though you eat the same dish for the next 4 days straight, the road is calling, and you have to leave.

in ecuador, i sit and wonder, am i not like the hummingbird? flying still for moments over one flower or branch, only to catch a glimpse of the next flower to taste.

through all the motions, the packings/unpackings/repackings, the "ciaos" and the "holas", the gazings out bus windows... through all the changes, it seems the constant elements of your life appear stronger, and more constant, than ever.

for me, the constant element i feel strongly now is my family. when i call home, i love hearing about the repairs to the roof and the cat taking his medicine. i love the constancy and routine of the life my parents live, and wonder a bit myself when i might have such constancy in my life.

Expatkerri's Top 10 Best Spots in Seoul

Yeuido Park at dusk, Seoul 2012 (photo taken with Instagram)

Since 2006, I've been a believer in Seoul as one of the greatest cities of the world. Busy, beautiful, complex, and inspiring, the possibilities for places to visit and things to do are nearly endless. Upon first arrival though, taking a glance at the subway map and the massive crowds on the streets can be quite intimidating.

Where should you go? What should you do?

Here I offer you my top 10 favourite spots in the coolest city in South Korea! I give descriptions of neighbourhoods I like, as well as the activities you can do in those areas. I hope this helps you make the most of your time in Seoul, however long or short your trip.

10 - Visit Myeongdong - "If the shopoholic came to Seoul, she would spend her days in MyeongDong"

Centrally located just a few stops north of Seoul Station, Myeongdong is the most famous area for clothes shopping in all of Seoul. If the crowds don't impress you, the clothes will. This is a really good place to shop for Korean-style clothes, as many of the shops have beautiful window displays which showcase how the pieces are meant to be worn. Korean fashion involves a lot of baggy pieces, layers, and feature pieces, and it can sometimes be hard to see how a certain item might be incorporated into an outfit. I find showing curiosity in feature pieces draws over the employees who will really help to put an outfit together for you. You will feel fantastic in new colours and patterns which you can wear for the rest of your time in Seoul. Though it's not the cheapest shopping area, you should definitely come to Myeongdong if you are at all interested in shopping for clothes while in Seoul.

How to get there: Myeongdong subway station. Line 4, exit 5.


9 - Visit Gyeongbuk Palace - "If the Prime Minister came to Seoul, they would take him to see GyeongBuk Palace"

GyeongBuk Palace, or Gyeongbuk Gung, (gung means palace in Korean) is the biggest, most famous, and best palace in Seoul. It's touristy, but with good reason. Before you enter, take photos of the bearded guards in colourful uniforms, and wait around until they do the changing of the guards. Once you're inside, it's less than 3,000 won to enter the palace, and you'll easily spend hours walking through the grounds. There is a picturesque lake and temple, as well as a museum and a cafe. And, if you like, you can even pay to dress up like Korean royalty and have your photo taken to preserve your memories at the palace.

How to get there: Gyeongbukgung subway station. Line 3, exit 3.


8 - Visit Carosu Gil, Apgujeong - "If Rhianna came to Seoul, she would party in Apgujeong"

Apgujeong is a famously rich district in Seoul, and on Carosu Gil (gil means street in Korean) you'll find the rich and famous out shopping and dining. Most of the stores in this area are extremely expensive designer clothing shops where the employees follow you around like hawks, but it can be really cool to see the beautiful and creative designs. You'll also find cafes with gorgeous and unique interior designs, offering everything from blueberry lattes to wine spritzers. Come here if you want to see the high life of wealthy Seoulites.

How to get there: Apgujeong subway station. Line 3, exit 4. Come out the exit and walk straight for 500m until you reach a sign which reads Carosu Gil on your left. Or just ask someone for Carosu Gil.


7 - Visit Yeuido - "If Lance Armstrong visited Seoul with his kids, they would cycle around Yeuido"

Along the shore of the Han River, families, couples and friends gather in the grass for picnics watching the rollerbladers whiz by. Many people bring tents to this park as there can be a lack of shade in some parts. If you're up for it, there's a waterpark in the park as well with a wave pool. There are also lots of food stands and people handing out flyers for fast food chains which deliver right to the park. You can rent a bike for 3,000 won per hour, or 5,000 for 2 hours, and then you can join the many bike riders along the paths. (Just leave an ID card while you bike to ensure your return). The rental bikes are in top shape, and you can even rent a bicycle for two. How romantic.

How to get there: Yeuido Station. Line 5, exit 3, walk straight for 5 minutes to the open arena with bikers and rollerbladers towards the national assembly building.


6 - Visit Yongsan - "If Ironman came to Seoul, he'd recharge himself in Yongsan"

If you want that overwhelming "I'minAsia!" feeling, Yongsan is the place. This electronic market is packed full of everything anyone could ever need in the form of electronic items: computers, netbooks, cameras, earphones, voice recorders, video equipment, and an endless supply of goodies to go along with these items. After a few hours walking around the electronic market, go down the stairs to Dragon Spa for the ultimate post-neon-shopping relaxation. Dragon Spa is one of the top Jimjilbangs in all of Korea (in my opinion) - and you can trust me, I've been to plenty.

How to get there: Yongsan Station. Line 1, main entrance to electronics market.


5 - Visit Namdaemun Market - "If Batman came to Seoul, he'd have a chase scene through Namdaemun market"

From cameras to Christmas trees, Namdaemun market has a little bit of everything to make any day of shopping worthwhile. If you aren't looking for anything specific, you'll still find yourself leaving the market area with a few treasures. You'll also see a wall of camera stores where you can buy extra batteries and other camera accessories. You can enjoy the beautiful gate by which the area is named after (though it has been under construction since an arson attack in 2008). The market is within walking distance of Seoul station, and there are many restaurants in the area as well as lots of street food.

How to get there: Hoehyeon Station. Line 4, exit 5.

　

4 - Visit Cheonggyecheon - "If the Bachelor came to Seoul, he would take his final choice on a date to Cheonggyecheon"

The perfect end to any day in Seoul is closer than you think. Cheonggyecheon (cheon means stream in Korean) is amazingly quiet and peaceful, almost to the point that you forget where you are. With beautifully lit bridges and waterfalls at night, it's a lovely spot to take photos, and just to sit and listen to the water. You'll never be alone though, as many people seek to find a few serene moments below the city roads. If you're into the vibe, buy some drinks at the Family Mart, find a cozy spot, and people-watch the night away.

How to get there: City Hall Station. Line 1, exit 4. Walk straight 5 minutes until you reach the entrance of the stream.


3 - Visit Samcheong-dong - "If Justin Beiber and Selena Gomez hung out in Seoul, they'd eat waffles in Samcheong-dong"

Take a break from the skyscrapers and noisy chain coffeeshops in favour of small windy streets and independent restaurants. Samcheong-dong is a wonderful way to enjoy Seoul on a smaller scale, literally: tiny roads, 8-seater restaurants, and boutique clothes shops line the streets just north of touristy Insadong. It's easy to fall in love with Seoul when you walk here, as you see art galleries next to adorable coffee shops with cozy creative atmospheres. The area also boasts an owl museum and the entrance to Bugaksan where you can see a great view of the city and the remaining ancient city walls.

How to get there: Anguk subway station: Line 3, exit 1. Cross the street and walk the opposite way from Insadong road.


2 - Visit Dongdaemun - "If Stella McCartney came to Seoul, hanging out in Dongdaemun would inspire her new clothing line"

The madness of this complex of 8 storey open malls is enough to make anyone a fashionista. After wandering the endless stalls of colourful belts and wild patterned skirts, you'll find yourself attracted to items you never considered before. Dongdaemun offers everything and anything that a human being can wear, all in one place. It can be exhausting if you spend more than a few hours inside, but I suggest taking the escalator up to a floor you like, and exploring that entire floor, then taking a coffee break on the top floor. That way you can maximize your shopping time and manage your energy levels. Also, if you're lucky, you'll be able to find the warehouse where you find rows of buttons and jewels to be strung into necklaces and wall hangings.

How to get there: Dongdaemun History and Culture Park subway station. Line 4 & Line 2 intersection, Exit 14.


1 - Visit Hongdae - "If the early days of the Beatles were happening now in Korea, they would perform in Hongdae."

Finally, my personal favourite neighbourhood: Hongdae. Hongdae is the name for the nightbourhood surrounding Hongik university, an art university which attracts creative talent from across the peninsula. Taking a walk around this area you'll see a lot of wild hair colours and styles, a lot of tattoos, a lot of musicians, and a lot of foreigners. This area is becoming very popular among the expat community as a place to party on the weekends. There are a lot of clubs and bars around this area which make it a great place to go out any night of the week. I recommend first visiting on a weekday afternoon for fewer crowds and great people watching. It will also help you get your bearings if you plan on coming back at night. At night, enjoy live music performances, dance-offs, flash mobs, art shows, all over a bottle of rice wine.

How to get there: Hongik University subway station. Line 2, exit 9.

Now you know where to go and what to do to make the most of your time in Seoul.

Enjoy the winding streets, enjoy getting lost and found, enjoy the cleanest and fastest subway rides, and definitely enjoy the street food!

Do you ever...

Do you ever click out of your life for a few days, just waking up, going along with the day, and falling back asleep?

Do you ever feel like sometimes you forget where you are, for want of the past, or dreams of the future?

Do you ever then, suddenly, click back into your life after feeling away for a few days, and look upon it with new eyes? With wonder, gratitude, and awe?

I feel like this right now, as I look back upon my photos from the past week.

Sometimes it's a simple case of becoming truly conscious of where you are which helps you appreciate it. There's nothing wrong with clicking in and out of life; it's how we manage to do our daily business without our hearts exploding over the miracles of language, breath, and memory.

I hope, for you, that you can take a moment today to feel conscious and grateful of where you are.

Ipiales, Colombia

Otavalo, Ecuador

Las Lajas Church, Ipiales, Colombia

Otavalo, Ecuador

Popayan, Colombia

Travels for the rest of the year

I'm in Otavalo, Ecuador, at the moment. We just arrived here yesterday after crossing the border from Colombia.

We have now spent 5 wondrous weeks in Colombia - exploring Cartagena, Santa Marta, Taganga, Tayrona National Park, Medellin, Guatape, Salento, Cali, Popayan, San Agustin, and Ipiales. Now that we've left Colombia, I can feel that the real "journey" part of this South American trip is beginning.

For our first day here in Otavalo, we visited the market to buy souvenirs and handicrafts, and left with armfuls of alpaca ponchos, necklaces, bags, tapestries, pillow cases, and rings. Our backpacks are getting heavier, but our hearts ever-happier too.

After Otavalo, we will go to Quito to catch a flight to the Galapagos Islands. The Galapagos Islands? Yes, the Galapagos Islands!! I never in my life thought I would be saying that...

After Galapagos, we're going to book it to Peru to get to the beach in Mancora to warm our feet in the sand before a long bus to Lima. I am going to try my best to visit the Language Cast Lima group while there. After Lima, there are a few small cities to visit before the mountains of Maccu Pichu.

By early October, we head into Bolivia via Lake Titicaca, stay in Cochabamba to volunteer with children for a few weeks, and after explore the mirrored salt flats of Uyuni.

After Peru it gets a bit blurry, as time and money will dictate where we can go, but the basic outline is to go to Chile to visit friends in Santiago, then over to Argentina to party the night away in Buenes Aires, and to Brazil to finish the trip in Rio by the end of November.

Are you in any of these places, or planning to travel through? If yes, let's meet up! I love the prospect of meeting new friends along the way of a long journey.

Post a comment here or on my Facebook page to make plans :)

Colours of Colombia: Capture the Colour Photo Contest

Among the travel blogger sphere, there's been a lot of buzz about Capture the Colour contest started by TravelSupermarket. I was recently tagged to participate in the contest by my friend and talented photographer Andi of My Beautiful Adventures. The contest winner gets £2000, which would make for heaps of pesos...

As I am currently travelling in Colombia, which is one of the most colourful and photographically inspiring countries I've ever seen, I'm only posting photos from Colombia.

Let me know which colour you enjoy the most in a comment below.

BLUE

Silvia, Colombia

We took a near 2-hour bus journey to arrive at this market, and right as we pulled up we realized it was going to be a blue day. With all the locals dressed in bright traditional Colombian blue, we got our cameras out and were ready to take photos the magic before us. We quickly realized it was going to be a challenge, as a few of the people turned away from the camera or said no when we asked if we could take a photo. Disappointed, with our hearts beaming with amazement and joy for the sights before us, one woman smiled and waved us over to her corner. She then pulled out a beaded necklace and chatted away with my friend in Spanish as I snuck a few photos. She then offered for us to take more photos, and cracked a huge laugh at seeing herself on the camera. It was a lovely start to our morning in the market.

GREEN

Salento, Colombia

The green hills and quiet winds of Salento soothed my soul upon arrival, and my heart smiled when I saw a guitar free for the playing in the hostel common area. I grabbed it, and found a spot overlooking the hills to strum and relax. After a few chords and lines, this cow walked up out of nowhere and stared right at me. I wondered if it was listening to my songs, or if it cared at all that I was there. We shared the view of the hills and a song or two together that afternoon.

YELLOW

Cartagena, Colombia

My first stop in Colombia was Cartagena, and I couldn't have started in a more colourful city. Everywhere we walked, the crumbling vivid walls begged to be photographed. This scene above is at the entrance of the old town in Cartagena, and we walked past this magazine stand every morning. The man greeted us with an "hola chicas" and a smile, and this bright photo reminds me of the friendliness of strangers all over Colombia.

WHITE

Salento, Colombia

Salento is in the middle of Colombia, and is one of the most famous coffee-growing regions in all of Colombia. After a few days riding horses and hiking the nearby mountains, we thought a coffee farm tour was in order. Luckily, we found a sweet local guide at the Don Elias coffee farm who took us around the grounds of his family business. You can read in more detail about the coffee tour in my blogpost here. In the photo above, the organic beans are in the drying stage of the coffee-making process. They are a gorgeous white when they come out of the red beans, and turn to the familiar black colour we know and love after they are roasted.

RED

Salento, Colombia

After an hour of intense horseback riding - the kind where you feel like Indiana Jones as your horse trots through wandering rivers and takes you down steep hills on rolling stones - you begin to feel at one with nature. Now add a cloud of beautiful butterflies to the mix. Now you feel like Indiana Jones at a party with real-life confetti being thrown at you as you wade through the water and make it to the other side. That's how we felt that day, and I was lucky enough to catch a close glimpse of just one of the hundreds of butterflies who scurried around us as we trotted by.

The memories preserved in these photos are moments in time from a journey I'm still on. I look back at each one and remember a time and a place when I was welcomed in this beautiful country.

I hope to keep capturing colours and moments like these for the rest of my travels.

Thank you to Travelsupermarket for creating this contest, and for giving all of us travel bloggers a challenging way to showcase our photos.