Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Guest Post: Volunteering in Western Kenya

My good friend visited Kenya a few years ago, and when I asked her to tell me all about it, before anything else, she grinned and replied "you'll have to see it for yourself."

Since that conversation, Kenya has become somewhere I want to go and stay for a while. The way of living, the food, the natural landscape, and the music allure me. Though I have visited other countries through which the equator passes, I have still yet to set foot in the African continent. Lucky for us, former English teacher in Korea turned blogger Natalie over at Live Teach Alaska has written up a guest post all about her time in Kenya. Here she shares her stories from her time volunteering in the Muhuru Bay area in Western Kenya. Take us into the bush, Natalie...


After six hours of driving over the uneven dirt roads of the Great Rift Valley, my team and I arrived in Muhuru Bay, Kenya, in the dark of night. Our van pulled into a tiny compound with three mud huts on the shore of Lake Victoria. Sleepily, I grabbed my suitcase and headed into my designated hut. I turned on the light, which was but a small, dim bulb at the apex of the triangular straw ceiling, and watched in horror as a carpet of insects scattered towards the walls. Shooting towards me was a creature several inches in length that closely resembled a white scorpion (though I still don’t know what it was). I screamed, my husband raced in, shouted, “Oh my God!”, and attempted to squash the Godzilla bug with a broom.




This was my first experience in the Eastern African Bush. After finally settling in that night, I was destined for one week of plastic bag showers, second degree sunburns, and toilet troubles. However, I can confidently say it was all worth it. My trip to Muhuru Bay truly changed my life.


I traveled to Kenya with eight family members and family friends to volunteer at Mama Maria, a fledgling clinic in Muhuru Bay. On our second day in the village, we were unexpectedly invited to a funeral. Despite our protests, we were seated as guests of honor and watched as family members of the deceased mourned by openly wailing.


After the funeral, we sat down at the feasting table and shared a plate of ugali with the people of the village. Children hid behind trees and rocks, staring and smiling at us.

A plate of ugali: maize cooked with water



The next day, we took a small fishing boat to visit a village on the other side of the lake. Despite the very poor living conditions, the villagers flocked over to greet us and show us around. A little girl took my hand as we were shown inside the huts of several of the village people who proudly showed off their pots and pans.



Later that week, we traveled to the only school in Muhuru Bay to teach a lesson about dental hygiene. Because the people in Muhuru Bay brush their teeth with tree bark, standard dental care was foreign knowledge. We passed out toothbrushes, toothpaste, and floss and showed them how to properly clean their teeth with a toothbrush.



A few days before the end of our trip, we heard about two girls who had fled Tanzania with their father to live in Muhuru Bay. The two girls we met had albinism and were forced to escape from their home because witch doctors were hunting them for their arms and legs. In Tanzania, it is a widespread belief that albino limbs have magical healing powers. The two little girls, ages 3 and 5, were scabbing all over their bodies due to terrible sunburns. We drove out to meet them and brought hats, sunscreen, and two goats for their family.



Although my first trip to Kenya wasn’t glamorous, it was extremely eye-opening and has changed me in so many ways. Witnessing a different culture, getting out of my comfort zone, volunteering, and giving to others made for a trip I’ll never forget. If you ever have the opportunity to travel to the African Bush, I would highly recommend it. I assure you, you will walk out of the experience a different person. 




You can follow Natalie’s adventures in a native Alaskan village at: http://www.liveteachalaska.com/

Or join the conversation at: https://www.facebook.com/LiveTeachAlaska  


Sunday, June 30, 2013

When life demands more than you can offer

When it feels like the outside world is a dream, and the only reality is you and a hospital monitor that beeps every second.



I believe every person is allotted an amount of stress that they are able to cope with. It might be higher for some people, and lower for others, but I think that everyone has their own stress threshold. The stresses of normal life - a critical remark from a co-worker or a piece of technology not performing properly - these stresses are manageable, and do not become catastrophic. We manage stress by rewarding ourselves, taking breaks, going to sleep early, and generally just by taking care of ourselves. But, when a person is thrust into a serious situation where every moment of time is used up, the normal stress coping mechanisms go out the window. Without taking the normal breaks and time for oneself, stress can build up to a boiling point very quickly if left un-managed. Unfortunately for me, I experienced a great deal of stress in a few days in a hospital last month, and my own means of coping with stress disappeared, as did my ability to take care of myself. There was no option to put myself or the person in need first - obviously I would eat when my help was no longer needed, or take a seat when the chance arose. At that time, it was more important to do everything I could to help that person get better.

Now that she is back to normal, and beginning life as a new mom, I am happy to see the pictures she sends of her new baby. I am happy for her life, and the way our relationship has become so enriched by this bonding experience. I am also happy for her relationship with her fiance, as I saw firsthand how deeply he cares for her, and how much he was willing to sacrifice for her well-being. I am happy that their lives have become normal, and the stresses they face are now the common experiences among all first-time parents.

One thing that has impressed me in this experience is the great effect that one person's life can have on another person's life. When I went to the hospital to help out, I never thought that I would be forced to change so much of my life. I'm supposed to be studying in New York, right now, but I had to cancel that study program. Instead of spending the summer studying in a cubby hole in the New York Public Library, I'm taking a semester off. I'm supposed to be moving back to Korea in August, but I missed my opportunity to apply for jobs and now feel wiser and slightly wary of my dream-like state of life there. I'm supposed to be living my own life fully, and in many ways I am not yet able to do that. And, ironically, now I'm the one who is taking the medicine.

"What does not destroy me makes me stronger"
- Nietzsche

I've always believed the above quotation, and had applied it to the difficult times I had experienced in my life. Before this trauma, my most difficult times were break-ups and travel horrors - but these difficulties don't compare to staring death in the face and singing someone to sleep not knowing if they would awaken. They don't compare to feeling like the outside world is a dream, and the only reality is you and a hospital monitor that beeps every second. When you cry because you hear the songs of birds for the first time in 3 days and realize the outdoor soundtrack you've taken for granted all your life. When you don't want to talk to anyone, or be talked to by anyone, and miss the opportunity to spend an afternoon alone. When every phone call is needy, and every minute demands a new task. When all people within arms reach are asking for you, wanting your time, needing answers, and haphazardly offering suggestions to you. When all your muscles ache but you didn't notice until that moment in the shower. When your brain betrays you, and won't allow sleep when it knows you've been up for days. When you feel wrinkles burrowing into your skin and long for the morning routine of grooming yourself. When you consume nothing but tea and muffins courtesy of someone else, and seek only a moment to sneak down to the hospital food court and order your own take away meal. When every eventual morsel of food you eat is the best you've ever had. When you think just a second anonymity would mend you. When every part of your body and mind feels like it can't keep going.

Something inside of me kept pushing me forward, onto the next step. Something told me to keep going, to keep moving, to keep walking.

During my worst moments, I felt nearly clairvoyant. I had the ability to x-ray anyone around me and determine if they were mentally well or in need of professional help. I felt lifetimes smarter than everyone else, and I felt ecstatic to finally see my whole life through a crystal clear rear view lens. A natural analyzer, I examined all of my friendships to determine who was safe for me to be around. I examined every person that I knew, and decided whether they were healthy or not. Now that I am returning to my quotidian life, I feel that my emotional intelligence will be better than it has been. I also think I will be able to take care of myself better, and be able to recognize when I am giving too much.

"Time heals all wounds"
- Unknown

It's not true that time heals all wounds, because every wound is different. Some wounds might never heal, and perhaps the inevitable distance of time from an unhealed wound is all the healing one can wish for. I certainly feel that the distance in time since this trauma to now - over 5 weeks - is helping me to heal. With each passing day, I feel closer to me. Closer to what I know to be me.

With persistence, professional help, and a lot of hard work and self reflection, I want to come out of this stronger and wiser, with the ability to take better care of myself.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Tasting freedom

 Frame Lake. Yellowknife, Canada


I just submitted my last project of the semester. Just, right now. After being under the constant looming pressure of studying online since March, I'm finally finished the semester. If you're wondering what it feels like to study a Masters online, allow me to explain.


 Enjoying sister and doggie time in Yellowknife


Every day, when I wake up, I think about what readings I haven't completed yet. Then, while I'm at work, I make a mental plan about going straight home after work to do my readings and get a head start on the assignment that is due next week. Inevitably, a grandmother or a friend or someone in between sends a message and I don't end up going home right after work. When I do get home, at last, I make something to eat and turn on my computer to check what pages the readings were. After logging in, I realize I actually do have something due sooner than I think, that I just didn't click in the right folder and didn't see it until right then. I get a little stressed. I then start working on the other assignment which is due more immediately, and don't end up getting a head start on my readings after all. The next day, I repeat this same routine with a spontaneous dinner with friends and a skype date, so again the readings are put on the back burner. I also find another random folder wherein a 3-day discussion has been taking place in my class about which I was unaware. The stress builds.


The bright night skies of the north country


Repeat this for 3 months. And add some group work, and some long, challenging readings, and a few short essays. Then you can feel the weight of the online Masters.

It ain't easy, but I'm truckin' through. Or should I say, tappin' through.

In June, I am so lucky to be attending onsite courses at the New School in Manhattan, and I will be able to study under some of my ESL idols, Jeremy Harmer included. Although the online courses are convenient and challenging, I really miss the in-class conversations and thoughts that can only be generated among a group of people all in the same room, thinking on the same topic. I miss that sense of group thought from my undergrad, and I'm so looking forward to feeling that inspiration in New York this summer.

As for now, I'm in the north country, the most northerly capital city in Canada, and current home of my sister: Yellowknife. It feels right that I'm finally feeling this long overdue freedom in such an outerworldly place. A place where the sun never sets, a place where the blue skies stretch on forever, a place where the beautiful lake is a 5-minute walk from your door.

With a population of 20,000... it sure ain't New York. But there's something here that New York doesn't have: the sanctuary of silence. And doesn't silence lead us to the deepest freedom of all - freedom from our surroundings, and the freedom to look into ourselves?

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

My Packing List! 6 months in South America

6-months backpacking in Central and South America


My (light) Packing List

Bags:
- 1 MEC 60L travel bag
- 1 small backpack (which can fit in my large travel bag)
- 1 over-the-shoulder purse

Clothes:
- 3 sundresses
- 1 long skirt (which doubles as a tube dress when hiked up and belted)
- 1 pair of leggings
- 1 pair of jean shorts
- 3 short sleeve shirts
- 1 long sleeve shirt
- 2 bikinis
- 3 pairs of socks
- 1 bra
- 5 pairs of underwear
- 1 sunhat

Shoes:
- 1 pair of Blundstone boots
- 1 pair of flipflops
- 1 pair of Birkenstocks
- 1 pair of cute flats

Gear:
- Acer Notebook
- iPhone 4s + charger + earphones
- 4 cameras (GoPro Hero, Canon ELPH 300, Canon F4000, toy film camera)
- extra batteries + chargers
- 6 memory cards of different sizes

Toiletries:
- shampoo + conditioner (small bottles)
- face wash + lotion
- toothbrush + toothpaste
- tweezers + nail clippers (which double as scissors)
- makeup
- hairbrush + hair clips + elastics
- razor + extra blades

Practicalities:
- passport (and photocopy of passport photo page)
- 2 credit cards
- around USD $100 in cash
- guidebook
- compass
- camera stand
- extra passport photos (for visas)
- 1 quick-dry travel towel
- 1 silk sleepsack (which I only used once)

Medicines:
- chewable Pepto Bismul tablets
- motion sickness pills
- Acetazolamide tablets for altitude sickness (Diamox) 

Extras:
- red nail polish
- jewelry

Stuff I needed to buy while travelling:
- rain jacket
- sunscreen
- bug spray
- warm alpaca sweater

On this trip, I tried to pack light, and bring only the things that I would use at least once a week. I didn't bring any pants, and used my leggings as a substitute for pants (which actually worked out well). At times, I wished I had more variety in my clothing, as it got a little boring to wear the same clothes every single day. I went shopping a few times, and bought a few extra sundresses to add to my minimal wardrobe.

Overall, I would recommend a light backpack, as you naturally acquire lots of little extra things while you travel. Having a light bag allows you to pick up things as you go, without your bag getting too heavy. That being said, after I bought a giant painting in Cartagena, and then a huge poncho in the Otavalo market in Ecuador, my backpack got too full and too heavy to carry comfortably for long distances. At that point, I took those items out of my bag and mailed them home to Canada in a box through the post. It was easy, and not very expensive, either. I felt like a new person when I put my backpack on without those heavy items in it!

Are you a light packer like me?
Or do you like to pack for precaution and carry lots of stuff with you?

Monday, April 29, 2013

First impressions of Mexico

When I take pictures or videos, people are sensitive to what I am doing, and either stop in their tracks or walk around me to avoid interrupting my picture.


Everything is delicious...


I love riding the subway even though it's hot and sweaty...


The downtown streets feel much more modern and chic than I expected...


There are lots of interesting neighbourhoods in which to walk around and get lost and found...


And there are also many pockets with cool arty streets...


The weather was fresh but not too hot...


And the new foods I tried were some of the best I've had in all my travels!




Have you been to Mexico?
What were your first impressions?

Are your first impressions often correct about places you visit?

Monday, April 15, 2013

Travelling Alone: How to get the most out of solo travel

Istanbul, Turkey

“Hi Kerri, 

I found your blog a few days ago and read that you travelled solo around Europe after graduating uni. I'm actually just finishing high school (sixth form here in England!), and in the four months before I start uni I'm travelling to Australia, stopping off in New Zealand, Thailand, and hopefully Hong Kong. Although there are a few people I'll be able to stay with, and a few I'll meet up with, I will be spending the vast majority of the trip on my own, and was wondering if you've got any tips about how to get the most out of solo travel. I'd also like to meet people as I go - do you have any particular ideas about how to do this? I booked my ticket, also kind of an 'in the moment' thing, and was getting a bit nervous, so it was really cool to read that you did something similar and had a great time.

Thanks so much, 
Ruby, from Cambridge” 

I dedicate this post to you, Ruby, and to all first-time solo travellers who are reading this. There are a lot of solo travellers out there right now, on planes, on trains, and in hostels, and every one of them took the same leap of faith you are contemplating now.

Here I will outline what I've gathered from my own solo travel experiences in the hopes of inspiring some of you to book the flight you've been dreaming of. Be not afraid of travelling solo - the only thing you should be scared of is the fact that you might never stop travelling once you start.

London, England

Book Your Ticket Now

When I booked my one-way ticket to London back in 2006, drunk off the amazing conversation I’d had with my roommate, and perhaps a little wine, I felt instantly like something big was happening. I had put into motion a plan I’d had in mind for so many years, a dream, a wish: to backpack in Europe alone. All I did was log onto expedia.com, chose my flight, put in my credit card info, and clicked “Confirm”. I read over the confirmation email, marked the date in my calendar, and from that moment on, had a date to count down to. Nothing excites me more than having a flight coming up for a new adventure.

If you’re scared, worried, and feeling totally crazy, know that I was too.

When I arrived at the airport, all packed up, guidebook in hand, I said goodbye to my parents and realized I was on my own. I was actually starting my journey – alone. Waiting at the departure gate, I read my book and stared at the other travellers, wondering if anyone else was also alone. I was too shy to ask at that point though, so I was left with my imaginings of the other people.

As soon as we landed at Gatwick, I made friends with another traveller while waiting to pick up my bag. He asked me if I was going downtown, and we shared a cab into the city.This brings me smoothly to my next piece of advice…


Guilin, China
 
Talk to Other Travellers 

You’re in a new city,and you don’t really know the ropes. You might have a place in mind to visit,but you’re not really sure if you want to go there alone. Lucky for you,there’s an army of solo travellers just like you sitting down for the free hostel breakfast, and this is your chance to find a friend and travel companion for the day. Ask others where they plan on going that day, and let them know what places you have in mind. If you have overlapping plans, before you can ask to join, the other will probably invite you to come along. If you're feeling shy, use my tactic for meeting people, and just pretend that you're already friends with whoever you're meeting. That way, you speed through all of the formalities and can get to the real conversations.

Travellers are some of the most easy going and friendliest people I’ve ever encountered, and they tend to treat fellow travellers as insta-friends. Meeting all these friendly people brings me to the next tip for solo travels…

 Hanoi, Vietnam

Talk to the Hostel Staff 

Not sure where the nearest ATM is? Wanna find a movie theatre? Lost your adapter? The staff at hostels are a great resource, as most of them are experienced travellers themselves. They can offer lots of good ideas for things to do when you arrive in a new city, and some hostels even offer free daily walking tours of the cities. If you're not sure where to eat, hostel staff can usually provide you with an extensive list of local choices, and they might even invite you to join them at their regular spot. If you want company, tell the staff you're travelling alone and they'll be happy to guide you in the right direction to meet some people to hang out with. Once you find your groove, take this next piece of advice and run...

Cheongju, Korea

Say Yes to Everything (within reason)

One of the greatest joys of solo travel is the ability to be spontaneous, and this means being able to say “yes” to unplanned invitations. At your hostel, when you start talking with other travellers, you’ll hear about places you never knew existed until that moment, and you might be invited to tag along and visit somewhere that you’d never planned on going. Even if you think the activity isn’t really your style, (like me agreeing to join a pub-crawl in Berlin when all I really wanted to do was sit in the park), by saying yes, you give yourself a chance to have a new experience. Isn’t that what all this travel business is about, anyway? Onto my next tip…

Dublin, Ireland
Keep a Journal

Travelling alone can be a very reflective time in your life, and many people say they travel to “figure out what they’re doing”. Although you might not get the answer to that question, you will certainly have a lot of time to think. Taking a train alone,having a meal alone, or even waking up in a hostel after everyone’s checked out: you are surrounded with as much alone time as you seek. I always like to keep a diary so that when I have an epiphany about something, or even just want to make a note about the name of the amazing food I ate for dinner, I can. To look back on old travel journals is a great pleasure, and sitting with a journal can be a conversation starter with other travellers. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve been sitting in a hostel bar writing in my diary when someone comes up and asks what I’m writing.  

I never travel without my diary.One should always have
something sensational to read on the train.
- Oscar Wilde

Brussles, Belgium

Here's a little anecdotal tale in the spirit of journalling and Oscar Wilde...

Once when I was taking an overnight train somewhere in Germany, I met three American travellers. We chatted about our routes, and naturally I pulled out my diary when the conversation died down. At that point, the conversation livened up again as they all became very curious about my diary. After a while, I eventually handed it over for them to devour. They loved reading of my escapades, and it was fun for me to see how others reacted to the way I'd journaled my experiences. I really should look back on those diary entries… but first, the next tip!

Machu Picchu, Peru

Trust Your Gut & Be Smart 

The running theme here is that travellers are pretty nice people, and of course this is a generalization, but it is one that I have made throughout my travels in 45 different countries, and one that I hold to be mostly true. I believe trusting in people, both locals and other travellers, allows me to relax when I travel, and it helps me be spontaneous and have more enriching travel experiences. However, no matter what you might be doing, always listen to that little voice inside of you. If something feels wrong, it probably is. Since you’re travelling alone, no one else is going to take responsibility for you if something goes wrong. Be smart – you’re ultimately the only one who can take care of yourself if you need to think straight. I hope I’m stating the obvious when I say don’t get plastered drunk with a group of people you don’t know, don’t take drugs from anyone, and definitely don’t leave your belongings with a trusting stranger. Lock up your valuables (passport, money, credit cards, computer if you have one, hard drive, etc.) in the lockers provided by hostels, and you’ll feel much more at ease knowing your things are safe. Now that I’ve lectured you about safety, let’s get back to the fun stuff…

Cahuita, Costa Rica

Don’t Plan Too Much 

When I travel, I usually have a general route in mind for the cities and sites I want to visit. The way I find what I want to see varies, but a fun way to get ready for a trip is to Google map the place you are visiting, and click to view the images. You can click around and see street views of the places you are interested in, as well as discover amazing churches, landscapes, and things you never knew were there. So, do some research and get excited about seeing certain places… but don’t stick to your plan like glue. Travels rarely go exactly as planned, as trains and buses leave off schedule, certain hostels are closed for the season, and sometimes you just change your mind once you get somewhere. Leave room in your plans for change, as you might arrive somewhere and fall in love with the hostel dog and just want to stay there and chill out for a while. You want to give yourself options when you travel, so my advice is to always keep things open… and that’s our last piece of advice here! 

Perth, Australia
Be Open 

In 2006, before I set out for my first solo travels in Europe, I sat in the passenger seat as my dad drove me to the airport. I had packed everything carefully, and I was ready to go. We talked along the way, and as we approached the airport, my dad offered this timeless advice:


“When you’re on the open road, be open.” 

This was the first sentence I wrote in my diary of my Europe trip, and I’ve never forgotten it. There is no other time in your life when you are as free to do what you like as when you travel alone. Tired? Sleep in. Hungry? Eat another lunch. Don’t want to take a night bus tonight? Stay another day.

You are the master of your own destiny when you travel alone. To make sure you get the most out of the experience, be open to the places you go, and the people you meet. For me, when I look back on my favourite moments in my travels, many of them involve the amazing friends I travelled with. But, there are also many special memories and experiences that I had when I was alone...

Sitting in a park in Cusco, watching kids play in a fountain. Eating a giant gooey chocolate waffle in the streets of Brugges. Sharing a loaf of bread with some kids in Angkor Wat. Being asked where in Paris I lived when walking in Champ de Mars. Taking a selfie in front of Big Ben. Going for the same café con leche at the same café for 2 weeks straight in Santiago. Crying on a train from Berlin to Amsterdam. Coming back to my hostel bed in Warsaw to find a note from a fellow traveller with whom I hadn’t swapped emails yet. Memorizing the names of school children in Santa Cruz...

And I wouldn’t have these memories any other way.

Colonia, Uruguay


Travelling alone is scary at the beginning, but as soon as you realize you are completely in control of everything you do, you quickly learn to love the freedom. Give in to your temptations to be on the road alone - you never know what's drawing you travel, or who you might meet, until you're out there. Nothing quite compares with the feeling of sitting on a plane full of strangers, quietly bubbling with joy inside knowing you're doing it - you're finally travelling alone!

Join the rest of us solo backpackers hanging out on couches and wandering around airports and bus stations. We are waiting for the next solo traveller to share a taxi with...


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