Whales and Dreams in Peru

5 days into Peru, I've already completed one of my biggest dreams. Ever since I can remember, I've wanted to see whales with my own eyes. From reading magazines to watching underwater National Geographic documentaries, I've been imagining whale watching since I was little.

I didn't know how to conceive of the biggest animals on Earth. How big were they really? Bigger than a school bus? Bigger than my bedroom? I had no sense of the relative size of a whale.

That was, until we were sitting at lunch with a view over the sea on my birthday, and someone pointed out to the horizon and showed us a big white splash. They said it was a whale, far out there, breaching in the deep seas. First one, then another. We just stared at the horizon as giant splashes appeared and disappeared in the distance. It was beautiful to see them, even from afar. I hadn't known that Mancora, Peru, was the best place to whale watch on the west coast of South America, nor did I realize that we were there in the right season. It was decided then and there that we would go whale watching the next day.

It was an early morning. Our boat, small and slow, brought us out to the wavy seas, and we waited with our cameras in hand.

Though I was optimistic, I remembered the time I tried to whale watch with my mom and sister in Cape Breton in 2006, and no whales surfaced for us. Part of me wondered whether the whales would come up for us that day.

It wasn't long before the whales were up too. As they surfaced for air, we pointed and loved each moment. Precious giants, sharing a breath with us.

Still dreaming of whales, my next dream is to see one under water when I scuba dive...

Have you ever seen whales, or do you want to?

inbetweens and constant things

quick moments with the hummingbirds of cocoura, colombia

the reality of travelling for an extensive period is that many of the fundamental elements of your life become fleeting.

the friends you meet are exciting and strange, but as they are near the end of their trip and you at the beginning of yours, the time your paths cross is limited.

the great hostel bed that you find, (with fluffy pillows and a heavy duvet the way you like it), is only yours for a few nights.

the souvenirs, alluring and colourful, become tokens of places and moments which we can't keep living.

the delight you find on a new island of beautiful creatures and crystal clear seas brings joy to your heart, and makes you so happy to be there, but not without a tinge of sadness that it can't last forever.

the best plate of guacamole of your life makes your tastebuds leap for lemon heaven, and though you eat the same dish for the next 4 days straight, the road is calling, and you have to leave.

in ecuador, i sit and wonder, am i not like the hummingbird? flying still for moments over one flower or branch, only to catch a glimpse of the next flower to taste.

through all the motions, the packings/unpackings/repackings, the "ciaos" and the "holas", the gazings out bus windows... through all the changes, it seems the constant elements of your life appear stronger, and more constant, than ever.

for me, the constant element i feel strongly now is my family. when i call home, i love hearing about the repairs to the roof and the cat taking his medicine. i love the constancy and routine of the life my parents live, and wonder a bit myself when i might have such constancy in my life.

Expatkerri's Top 10 Best Spots in Seoul

Yeuido Park at dusk, Seoul 2012 (photo taken with Instagram)

Since 2006, I've been a believer in Seoul as one of the greatest cities of the world. Busy, beautiful, complex, and inspiring, the possibilities for places to visit and things to do are nearly endless. Upon first arrival though, taking a glance at the subway map and the massive crowds on the streets can be quite intimidating.

Where should you go? What should you do?

Here I offer you my top 10 favourite spots in the coolest city in South Korea! I give descriptions of neighbourhoods I like, as well as the activities you can do in those areas. I hope this helps you make the most of your time in Seoul, however long or short your trip.

10 - Visit Myeongdong - "If the shopoholic came to Seoul, she would spend her days in MyeongDong"

Centrally located just a few stops north of Seoul Station, Myeongdong is the most famous area for clothes shopping in all of Seoul. If the crowds don't impress you, the clothes will. This is a really good place to shop for Korean-style clothes, as many of the shops have beautiful window displays which showcase how the pieces are meant to be worn. Korean fashion involves a lot of baggy pieces, layers, and feature pieces, and it can sometimes be hard to see how a certain item might be incorporated into an outfit. I find showing curiosity in feature pieces draws over the employees who will really help to put an outfit together for you. You will feel fantastic in new colours and patterns which you can wear for the rest of your time in Seoul. Though it's not the cheapest shopping area, you should definitely come to Myeongdong if you are at all interested in shopping for clothes while in Seoul.

How to get there: Myeongdong subway station. Line 4, exit 5.


9 - Visit Gyeongbuk Palace - "If the Prime Minister came to Seoul, they would take him to see GyeongBuk Palace"

GyeongBuk Palace, or Gyeongbuk Gung, (gung means palace in Korean) is the biggest, most famous, and best palace in Seoul. It's touristy, but with good reason. Before you enter, take photos of the bearded guards in colourful uniforms, and wait around until they do the changing of the guards. Once you're inside, it's less than 3,000 won to enter the palace, and you'll easily spend hours walking through the grounds. There is a picturesque lake and temple, as well as a museum and a cafe. And, if you like, you can even pay to dress up like Korean royalty and have your photo taken to preserve your memories at the palace.

How to get there: Gyeongbukgung subway station. Line 3, exit 3.


8 - Visit Carosu Gil, Apgujeong - "If Rhianna came to Seoul, she would party in Apgujeong"

Apgujeong is a famously rich district in Seoul, and on Carosu Gil (gil means street in Korean) you'll find the rich and famous out shopping and dining. Most of the stores in this area are extremely expensive designer clothing shops where the employees follow you around like hawks, but it can be really cool to see the beautiful and creative designs. You'll also find cafes with gorgeous and unique interior designs, offering everything from blueberry lattes to wine spritzers. Come here if you want to see the high life of wealthy Seoulites.

How to get there: Apgujeong subway station. Line 3, exit 4. Come out the exit and walk straight for 500m until you reach a sign which reads Carosu Gil on your left. Or just ask someone for Carosu Gil.


7 - Visit Yeuido - "If Lance Armstrong visited Seoul with his kids, they would cycle around Yeuido"

Along the shore of the Han River, families, couples and friends gather in the grass for picnics watching the rollerbladers whiz by. Many people bring tents to this park as there can be a lack of shade in some parts. If you're up for it, there's a waterpark in the park as well with a wave pool. There are also lots of food stands and people handing out flyers for fast food chains which deliver right to the park. You can rent a bike for 3,000 won per hour, or 5,000 for 2 hours, and then you can join the many bike riders along the paths. (Just leave an ID card while you bike to ensure your return). The rental bikes are in top shape, and you can even rent a bicycle for two. How romantic.

How to get there: Yeuido Station. Line 5, exit 3, walk straight for 5 minutes to the open arena with bikers and rollerbladers towards the national assembly building.


6 - Visit Yongsan - "If Ironman came to Seoul, he'd recharge himself in Yongsan"

If you want that overwhelming "I'minAsia!" feeling, Yongsan is the place. This electronic market is packed full of everything anyone could ever need in the form of electronic items: computers, netbooks, cameras, earphones, voice recorders, video equipment, and an endless supply of goodies to go along with these items. After a few hours walking around the electronic market, go down the stairs to Dragon Spa for the ultimate post-neon-shopping relaxation. Dragon Spa is one of the top Jimjilbangs in all of Korea (in my opinion) - and you can trust me, I've been to plenty.

How to get there: Yongsan Station. Line 1, main entrance to electronics market.


5 - Visit Namdaemun Market - "If Batman came to Seoul, he'd have a chase scene through Namdaemun market"

From cameras to Christmas trees, Namdaemun market has a little bit of everything to make any day of shopping worthwhile. If you aren't looking for anything specific, you'll still find yourself leaving the market area with a few treasures. You'll also see a wall of camera stores where you can buy extra batteries and other camera accessories. You can enjoy the beautiful gate by which the area is named after (though it has been under construction since an arson attack in 2008). The market is within walking distance of Seoul station, and there are many restaurants in the area as well as lots of street food.

How to get there: Hoehyeon Station. Line 4, exit 5.

　

4 - Visit Cheonggyecheon - "If the Bachelor came to Seoul, he would take his final choice on a date to Cheonggyecheon"

The perfect end to any day in Seoul is closer than you think. Cheonggyecheon (cheon means stream in Korean) is amazingly quiet and peaceful, almost to the point that you forget where you are. With beautifully lit bridges and waterfalls at night, it's a lovely spot to take photos, and just to sit and listen to the water. You'll never be alone though, as many people seek to find a few serene moments below the city roads. If you're into the vibe, buy some drinks at the Family Mart, find a cozy spot, and people-watch the night away.

How to get there: City Hall Station. Line 1, exit 4. Walk straight 5 minutes until you reach the entrance of the stream.


3 - Visit Samcheong-dong - "If Justin Beiber and Selena Gomez hung out in Seoul, they'd eat waffles in Samcheong-dong"

Take a break from the skyscrapers and noisy chain coffeeshops in favour of small windy streets and independent restaurants. Samcheong-dong is a wonderful way to enjoy Seoul on a smaller scale, literally: tiny roads, 8-seater restaurants, and boutique clothes shops line the streets just north of touristy Insadong. It's easy to fall in love with Seoul when you walk here, as you see art galleries next to adorable coffee shops with cozy creative atmospheres. The area also boasts an owl museum and the entrance to Bugaksan where you can see a great view of the city and the remaining ancient city walls.

How to get there: Anguk subway station: Line 3, exit 1. Cross the street and walk the opposite way from Insadong road.


2 - Visit Dongdaemun - "If Stella McCartney came to Seoul, hanging out in Dongdaemun would inspire her new clothing line"

The madness of this complex of 8 storey open malls is enough to make anyone a fashionista. After wandering the endless stalls of colourful belts and wild patterned skirts, you'll find yourself attracted to items you never considered before. Dongdaemun offers everything and anything that a human being can wear, all in one place. It can be exhausting if you spend more than a few hours inside, but I suggest taking the escalator up to a floor you like, and exploring that entire floor, then taking a coffee break on the top floor. That way you can maximize your shopping time and manage your energy levels. Also, if you're lucky, you'll be able to find the warehouse where you find rows of buttons and jewels to be strung into necklaces and wall hangings.

How to get there: Dongdaemun History and Culture Park subway station. Line 4 & Line 2 intersection, Exit 14.


1 - Visit Hongdae - "If the early days of the Beatles were happening now in Korea, they would perform in Hongdae."

Finally, my personal favourite neighbourhood: Hongdae. Hongdae is the name for the nightbourhood surrounding Hongik university, an art university which attracts creative talent from across the peninsula. Taking a walk around this area you'll see a lot of wild hair colours and styles, a lot of tattoos, a lot of musicians, and a lot of foreigners. This area is becoming very popular among the expat community as a place to party on the weekends. There are a lot of clubs and bars around this area which make it a great place to go out any night of the week. I recommend first visiting on a weekday afternoon for fewer crowds and great people watching. It will also help you get your bearings if you plan on coming back at night. At night, enjoy live music performances, dance-offs, flash mobs, art shows, all over a bottle of rice wine.

How to get there: Hongik University subway station. Line 2, exit 9.

Now you know where to go and what to do to make the most of your time in Seoul.

Enjoy the winding streets, enjoy getting lost and found, enjoy the cleanest and fastest subway rides, and definitely enjoy the street food!

Travels for the rest of the year

I'm in Otavalo, Ecuador, at the moment. We just arrived here yesterday after crossing the border from Colombia.

We have now spent 5 wondrous weeks in Colombia - exploring Cartagena, Santa Marta, Taganga, Tayrona National Park, Medellin, Guatape, Salento, Cali, Popayan, San Agustin, and Ipiales. Now that we've left Colombia, I can feel that the real "journey" part of this South American trip is beginning.

For our first day here in Otavalo, we visited the market to buy souvenirs and handicrafts, and left with armfuls of alpaca ponchos, necklaces, bags, tapestries, pillow cases, and rings. Our backpacks are getting heavier, but our hearts ever-happier too.

After Otavalo, we will go to Quito to catch a flight to the Galapagos Islands. The Galapagos Islands? Yes, the Galapagos Islands!! I never in my life thought I would be saying that...

After Galapagos, we're going to book it to Peru to get to the beach in Mancora to warm our feet in the sand before a long bus to Lima. I am going to try my best to visit the Language Cast Lima group while there. After Lima, there are a few small cities to visit before the mountains of Maccu Pichu.

By early October, we head into Bolivia via Lake Titicaca, stay in Cochabamba to volunteer with children for a few weeks, and after explore the mirrored salt flats of Uyuni.

After Peru it gets a bit blurry, as time and money will dictate where we can go, but the basic outline is to go to Chile to visit friends in Santiago, then over to Argentina to party the night away in Buenes Aires, and to Brazil to finish the trip in Rio by the end of November.

Are you in any of these places, or planning to travel through? If yes, let's meet up! I love the prospect of meeting new friends along the way of a long journey.

Post a comment here or on my Facebook page to make plans :)

Colours of Colombia: Capture the Colour Photo Contest

Among the travel blogger sphere, there's been a lot of buzz about Capture the Colour contest started by TravelSupermarket. I was recently tagged to participate in the contest by my friend and talented photographer Andi of My Beautiful Adventures. The contest winner gets £2000, which would make for heaps of pesos...

As I am currently travelling in Colombia, which is one of the most colourful and photographically inspiring countries I've ever seen, I'm only posting photos from Colombia.

Let me know which colour you enjoy the most in a comment below.

BLUE

Silvia, Colombia

We took a near 2-hour bus journey to arrive at this market, and right as we pulled up we realized it was going to be a blue day. With all the locals dressed in bright traditional Colombian blue, we got our cameras out and were ready to take photos the magic before us. We quickly realized it was going to be a challenge, as a few of the people turned away from the camera or said no when we asked if we could take a photo. Disappointed, with our hearts beaming with amazement and joy for the sights before us, one woman smiled and waved us over to her corner. She then pulled out a beaded necklace and chatted away with my friend in Spanish as I snuck a few photos. She then offered for us to take more photos, and cracked a huge laugh at seeing herself on the camera. It was a lovely start to our morning in the market.

GREEN

Salento, Colombia

The green hills and quiet winds of Salento soothed my soul upon arrival, and my heart smiled when I saw a guitar free for the playing in the hostel common area. I grabbed it, and found a spot overlooking the hills to strum and relax. After a few chords and lines, this cow walked up out of nowhere and stared right at me. I wondered if it was listening to my songs, or if it cared at all that I was there. We shared the view of the hills and a song or two together that afternoon.

YELLOW

Cartagena, Colombia

My first stop in Colombia was Cartagena, and I couldn't have started in a more colourful city. Everywhere we walked, the crumbling vivid walls begged to be photographed. This scene above is at the entrance of the old town in Cartagena, and we walked past this magazine stand every morning. The man greeted us with an "hola chicas" and a smile, and this bright photo reminds me of the friendliness of strangers all over Colombia.

WHITE

Salento, Colombia

Salento is in the middle of Colombia, and is one of the most famous coffee-growing regions in all of Colombia. After a few days riding horses and hiking the nearby mountains, we thought a coffee farm tour was in order. Luckily, we found a sweet local guide at the Don Elias coffee farm who took us around the grounds of his family business. You can read in more detail about the coffee tour in my blogpost here. In the photo above, the organic beans are in the drying stage of the coffee-making process. They are a gorgeous white when they come out of the red beans, and turn to the familiar black colour we know and love after they are roasted.

RED

Salento, Colombia

After an hour of intense horseback riding - the kind where you feel like Indiana Jones as your horse trots through wandering rivers and takes you down steep hills on rolling stones - you begin to feel at one with nature. Now add a cloud of beautiful butterflies to the mix. Now you feel like Indiana Jones at a party with real-life confetti being thrown at you as you wade through the water and make it to the other side. That's how we felt that day, and I was lucky enough to catch a close glimpse of just one of the hundreds of butterflies who scurried around us as we trotted by.

The memories preserved in these photos are moments in time from a journey I'm still on. I look back at each one and remember a time and a place when I was welcomed in this beautiful country.

I hope to keep capturing colours and moments like these for the rest of my travels.

Thank you to Travelsupermarket for creating this contest, and for giving all of us travel bloggers a challenging way to showcase our photos.

No More Tea for Me

Colombia is the first country, in the world, where I can call myself a coffee drinker.

Don Elias Coffee Tour, Salento, Colombia

In every other country, if I ever have the choice between coffee or tea, I will almost always choose tea. I love the taste of coffee, but I find myself choosing tea when I am offered one of the two.

But as I am in the coffee region of Colombia, I cannot stop drinking the coffee here. Every morning I wake up and have a cup with breakfast. It is smooth, flavourful, fresh, and absolutely delicious. I even ordered a coffee after lunch today, without thinking much of it. Being here, coffee is making its way into my heart.

We had the recent joy of visiting a small coffee farm in Salento, Colombia yesterday. Our smiling guide took the four of us through the coffee fields, where they grow bananas, sugarcane, beans, limes, mandarin oranges, pineapples, and of course, coffee plants.

The farm has been growing coffee for 18 years, and our guide explained the whole process of coffee making, right from the plants.

On their farm, they grow three varieties of coffee beans, and rotate the crops after each season to ensure the right soil composition for the next round of coffee growing.

Our guide explained that when the buds turn red, they are ready for harvesting. He picked this one off a short plant and showed us the precious beans inside. They were an unfamiliar bright white, fresh off the vine, and not yet roasted brown.

The white beans are then left to dry for 3 days in the sun, and when totally ready, they are put in pans to be roasted over fire on the oven. He explained that they must be steadily stirred for an hour, and that even walking away for a minute would burn the beans.

The tour, all in Spanish, lasted around 45 minutes, and ended with our very own freshly roasted cups of organic farm-grown Colombian coffee, roasted the night before. It was so rich and aromatic, I bought two packs to give to family. Now my whole backpack smells like fresh roasted coffee.

If coffee is the nectar of the gods, I must be in heaven.

Thoughts on Colombia

"I don't think you should go to Colombia,"

my sister texted me, just weeks before I set off on my trip through Central and South America,

"my friend is Colombian and she hasn't even been back there in 15 years."

There are two sides to every story, and that applies evermore to travel in Colombia. On one side, Colombia is a violent and dangerous country, ruled for decades by outlaw armed groups and later by billionaire cocaine smugglers. Of the same grain, a visit to the Canadian travel report on Colombia could easily scare you away from booking your ticket. Talking about your travel plans for Colombia can result in worried disapproving looks from friends and family. A quick Google search which turns up articles about young gangs hired by drug lords to kill the cops doesn't really help either.

But on the other side, the traveler's side, you hear a different story of Colombia entirely. Stories of magical lost cities, of colonial statues and salsa at night, of crystal clear beaches and breezy mountain villages, of cumbia bus rides and dancing in line at the ATM, of smiling handshakes and milkshakes of lulo... the kinds of stories that make a place alluring and fantastic. When recent travelers are asked about it, they all say the same thing:

"You will love Colombia"

The truth is, Colombia is a different place now than it was 15 years ago. The intense fear surrounding travel in this country is not without reason, but now with travelers to nearly all regions of the country, are we ready to re-think it?


I am in Medellin as I write this post, which at one point was the most murderous city in the world. You wouldn't know it now, though, as locals chat with us, offering advice for places to visit or giving directions.

The increased security of the last ten years makes Colombia much more accessible for travelers. On this journey through Colombia so far, I've met visitors from Ireland, England, Germany, Austria, Holland, France, Spain, Mexico, the USA, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, South Korea, Colombia and of course, fellow Canadians. The majority of travelers here seem enthralled by the culture and nature of this country, and many are adjusting travel plans to manage overstaying every place they visit. I'm no exception.


Starting with a booking for 3 nights in Cartagena and staying for a week was just the beginning. The old city left me breathless and dying to see more of the colourful buildings. It also gave me the sweetest taste of anticipation for what the rest of South America has to offer. After overstaying in Cartagena, I only imagined a few nights in Taganga. I ended up spending another week diving in the national park, among blowfish the size of my torso and some of the prettiest coral walls I've ever seen. The rumours are true:

"You will fall in love with Colombia"

I've already fallen in love with Colombia, evidenced by my extremely slow journey here. I went through the whole of Costa Rica in just over a week, and I've already spent two weeks just in the northern regions of Colombia. But that's me, and that's how I travel: when I like a place, I stay for a while. Lucky for me, my travel partner travels by the same rule.

So, why did I like Taganga, and why did I overstay my planned visit by a week? I went into a dive shop looking to do some fun dives, and I was greeted with the friendliest and warmest smiles. The dives were gorgeous too, but it was the people who took us on those dives who made me want to stay. People like our boat captain Oscar, a 60-something Colombian man who sings to himself while we prepare our tanks and put on our fins. Or the man selling empanadas on the beach who eyes us when he says 'cervezas', just in case we want another one. Or the simple welcome of an "hola chicas" as we return to our hostel after a day at sea. Or the 12-year old next to me on the plane who strikes up a conversation in Spanish and suggests spots to visit in his hometown of Cali. It's just like all the travelers said:

"You will meet the nicest people there"

Now 2 weeks into Colombia, I can only wonder if our upcoming destinations: Salento, Cali, Popayan, San Agustin, and Bogota will implore us to overstay as well. At this rate, hearing what the travelers coming north have to say, it'll be another month before we actually leave this country, at least. We plan for 2 more weeks before we get to Ecuador, but can we really see and do all that we want in just 2 weeks? Like everyone tells us:

"You will want more time everywhere in Colombia"

The only way I will be able to leave this country is to know that I'll be coming back. Already contemplating future teaching jobs and learning Spanish here, I know this first month in Colombia won't be my last.



Blue Wave

Tayrona National Park

Cabo San Juan, Tayrona National Park

Truck from Pablo Escobar's garage, Medellin

See more of my photos from Colombia and beyond on Instagram

My 3 Favourite Travel Moments - The Blogger Relay!

Thank you to Stephen of Bohemian Traveler for passing on the proverbial blogging relay baton to me. I now join the Green Team train of travel bloggers, led by the folks at Overyonderlust.

Our task is to choose our three favourite travel memories and tag another travel blogger when we're done. The team with the longest running chain of bloggers will win a small prize from the Lowcost Travel blog, as well as major travel blog gloating status.

It is always a challenge to narrow down and pick favourites, but after a while looking back on travels, I realize the moments below are some of my happiest, craziest, and simply best moments on the road.

Enjoy!

1 - Finding the diamond at Schwedagon Paya, Burma

Walking up to Schwedagon Paya is the closest I've ever felt to heaven. In a land of curious smiles and cawing roosters, the paya glows bright like the sun. Once up close to the pagoda, I lost myself in the magnificence of it all. When a guard approached me and gestured to see my ticket, I was so in my own world of gratitude I couldn't even find mine. Worried I would be kicked out, I apologized frantically. Clearly not a problem, he pulled out a ticket from his pocket and pointed to the writing on the back of it. In English, I read to myself an explanation of the diamond-encrusted top of the pagoda. Squinting to the top, I couldn't see a diamond from a reflection of the sun, and the guard could see my struggle. He pointed to a particular spot on the tiled ground, stood on that spot, and then pointed up to the top. Following him, I stood in that precise spot, and I saw the sparkle of a blue diamond come into view. I'll never forget that kind guard, or the way that diamond sparkled all the way from the top of the pagoda.

2 - Having my ear ripped off by an elephant, Thailand

In keeping with the theme of Shaun's pink dolphin bite, I present to you my second travel memory:

When you're at an elephant sanctuary in Chiang Mai, it's very easy to feel like fast friends with the elephants. Within minutes of arriving we were feeding the elephants sugar cane right into their mouths with our bare hands. In hindsight, it's obvious that I thought I had a little more of a bond with the elephants than they felt toward me. After an elephant reached out its trunk to check me out, I ended up on the ground with dirt and mud all over me, and a severed ear. Three countries and two rounds of stitches later, I still have my ear, and one helluva story for the grandkids.

To read the whole crazy story, you can read the blog post.

3 - Feeding pigeons in Piazza San Marco, Italy

I love pigeons. People say they are dirty and diseased, but I find them charming. For a traveler, the sight of pigeons is familiar, and it can feel like a tiny taste of home when you're feeling miles away. Pigeons also don't discriminate between a rubbish bin or the statue of a saint - they will go anywhere. So when I was in Venice, and a man offered me a bag of birdseed for a Euro, I happily paid him. The pigeons flocked to me in a dusty, feathery flurry, and I maintain it was the best Euro I spent in all of Italy.

And there you have it, another successful post of travel memories for the Green Team!

Team Green: As jam packed with surprise and zest as the green limes of Colombia!

I now tag my travel partner in crime ThisBatteredSuitcase to share her top three travel stories. I'm sure she'll give the Green Team something to be proud of.

Let the relay continue with every memory!

Video: First days in Colombia

it's only our second day here in Cartagena, Colombia

we're both already in love with the beautiful old city, its graffiti, and its friendly faces

if today is any indication...

it seems Colombia will be living up to its reputation as one of

the best countries for travel in all of South America

Any Road

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there"

- George Harrison (from the song Any Road)

Just a day before we sail from Panama to Colombia, I can't help but feel madly excited about the upcoming continent and all the adventures we'll have. The lure of South America has always been in me; even as a little girl I dreamed of the Brazilian amazon. Now with hours until we sail, and just days until out feet find solid ground on the Cartagena beaches, I'm thrilled.

Our plans for Colombia - and the whole of South America - are pretty vague. We do have our general direction, and certain cities we won't miss. But when it comes to how long in what place, we are intentionally keeping our plans open.

The road is nothing if not unpredictable. Embracing the unpredictability of the road means being open to all people, and all places. It's easy to end up in a place you never intended to visit, simply upon the recommendation of another traveler. I learned that first-hand when in France in 2006, and I ended up unexpectedly doing the first three days of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela upon the recommendation of a friendly girl I met in the hostel. Destinations become fluid and so do the reasons for visiting.

The photo above is from Cahuita on the east coast of Costa Rica, after hearing that it was "beautiful" from a girl with whom we shared a short bus ride. We hadn't even heard of the city, and within 24 hours we were there.

The joy of motion, being en route, and just simply not knowing is a big part of what makes traveling so immediate and so rewarding. You find a place to go, and then you get there.

For us, right now that place is South America.

What did you do on Monday?

Just strolled in a national park watching monkeys in the trees.

Cahuita, Costa Rica

swimming with sharks

Jake's Place, Little Corn Island, Nicaragua

"you're probably wondering who jake is..."

this is how the dive briefing began for my second day of diving in little corn island.

"...jake is a friendly nurse shark."

a friendly shark? friendly and shark are two words not usually used in the same sentence, at least outside of the diving community.

this dive was actually my second time seeing sharks underwater, so i had a small idea of what to expect since we had seen a few nurse sharks on our dives the day before.

the first time i saw a shark while diving, it was sitting still under a coral shelf. lying on the ocean floor, it looked calm, resting and waiting for night to come.

i expected to see jake in the same way.

as i handed my fins and weights onto the boat, i casually asked my dive master how big jake was.

"about 7 feet."

when our boat arrived out in the middle of the choppy waters, i wondered if jake would be resting under his chosen coral shelf. securing my mask and air, i rolled back off the boat and into jake's place.

as soon as we got down to the coral, our dive master turned to us and gave the shark signal (a hand gesturing a shark fin on your forehead). within moments, just feet below my fins, jake swam through.

we stayed still to watch him, and he had no interest in our group. he swam out of sight and we kept going along the coral. after a few minutes, other divers signaled the shark hand gesture. jake swam by again in the other direction, close to the coral. he kept on appearing and disappearing throughout our dive.

i was not scared, but more amazed to see this creature moving peacefully through the water below us. the shark appeared perfectly in balance with all of the other fish and life we were seeing under the sea, and accordingly didn't feel threatening. there were even two foot-length blue fish following the shark around, as little ones might follow around their older siblings.

the underwater social hierarchy in balance, right before our eyes.

upon surfacing, everyone commented how good the dive was. how lucky we were to see a shark.

and i feel lucky too.

how special to witness a moment of life for a creature so misunderstood, to the tune of my own breath. i felt no fear, but rather peacefulness and a longing for the underwater dream never to end.

but like sleeping dreams, all dives have to come to an end.

even dives with sharks.

big in granada

big skies

big avocados

big trees

big colours

big friendships

Just two days into Granada, Nicaragua with my beautiful travel partner Brenna, I can't help but feel we're at the beginning of something amazing, something life altering, something unforgettable, something big.

This morning over breakfast, we discussed an idea I've wondered about before. Whether you travel for a week or a month or a year, after the travels are over you feel a specific range of feelings when reviewing your photos.

It's easy to think of the pictures from early on in the trip as being less informed and lacking the worldly wisdom of later pictures - your clothes tidy and clean, your skin unworn and not yet blazed by the sun.

Around the middle of the trip, the photos are happy and care-free: the mark of a traveler truly amid the journey, thinking neither of the beginning or the end of the travels. For me, this is where I usually find my favourite travel photos.

When it comes to the final pictures of the trip, they seem to hold the knowledge, sadness, and already nostalgic feeling of a trip coming to an end. Sometimes you even stop taking pictures for days at a time.

Every trip has a beginning, a middle, and an end. And though this trip through central and south America together begins now for us, it's hardly the beginning of our journey as travelers together: we've traveled Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Japan, Thailand, Burma, and South Korea together.

And it's certainly not the end.

the evolution of a backpack (& the legend of the woman in the black dress)

My first extended backpacking trip was around Europe back in 2006, where I managed to see 22 countries in 4 months. I began the trip hopeful and naive with a bag weighing 12kgs (not including my carry-on), and I came home with a full heart and a dirty bag weighing in at a hefty 17kgs. It was getting hard to lift near the end of the trip, with gifts and ticket stubs and moments of life all fighting for space in my bag.

Here in 2012, I begin my second extensive backpacking trip, as I head off to Nicaragua to meet up with my friend to navigate our way through central and south America until we get to Rio de Janeiro. We're planning to be on the road for a few months (but it could end up being longer if we love a certain somewhere). I vowed to myself not to bring too much stuff, and in particular not too many clothes.

Having recently moved out of my apartment in Jinju, Korea - where I had lived comfortably for 2 years - I parted with a lot of clothes. Some were old vintage items I just wasn't wearing, some were new items that I hadn't quite worked into my wardrobe, and there were lots of colourful scarves and pretty skirts that just fell somewhere in between. With the simplicity of fewer things in my apartment in Korea, I also seem to have adopted a bit more of a simpler wardrobe in the past month. Fewer costume changes, and more well-liked clothes on repeat. It is with this principle that I packed my backpack for my upcoming travels.

What clothes did I pack? A pair of jean shorts, a black skirt, a white skirt, a blue button up collared shirt, 3 pretty tops, a longsleeved shirt, a cardigan, a short dress and a pair of leggings. Just one dress, and this is odd for me, since my four-season wardrobe consists of at least 50% dresses. The reason is that I know I will find dresses I love down south.

Yes, there are other items in my bag, and that's what makes up the other 6kgs. I have a netbook and terabyte of storage for videos, a 1068 page guidebook, a GoPro camera plus the user guide (since I have yet to memorize it), a silk bed liner, a pair of blunnies and a bunch of other little things which I want to have with me. Of course I want to have dresses with me too...

But, when I'm traveling in a new city, and I find a dress that I love, I buy it. These clothing items are my souvenirs, and when I wear them I'm filled with the memories of the music, food, and the city where I bought it. Going to the land of floral dresses and handstitched patterns only makes my heart pine for beautiful dresses, and I know I'll find ones that suit me perfectly. This way, the dresses I wear on my trip will be of that area, and I can create memories and take photos wearing items from that region.

At the airport en route to Managua, Nicaragua, my backpack weighed 8.8kgs (with a carry-on at 4kgs). Here I have a much more organized and well-prepared backpack than the one I carried in Europe, and as a bonus I'm starting at a lighter weight. Remember, my first backpacking trip was 6 years ago, and I was pretty much as novice as a backpacker can get (I'd been to Paris and London for 2 weeks each on a high school exchange, but high school exchanges are far different from solo traveling, oh and that one trip to Barbados when I was 16 with my family...). I've picked up a lot of tips and tricks throughout my other travels to places including Turkey, China, Burma, Vietnam, and Thailand.

My very first time leaving Korea in 2007, I rode by boat past this bridge while it was under construction. The bridge stuck its half-contructed spine out into the sea then, weak and unready. Leaving Korea most recently in 2012, we rode along the very same bridge, now confidently providing commuters a more convenient road to reach the airport.

No umbrella, wearing my heaviest shoes instead of keeping them in the bag, using air compressing plastic bags to organize clothes, and carrying fewer liquids are some of my current strategies keeping my bag lighter. But another strategy is just simply having fewer clothes. When traveling Europe in 2006, some clothes in my bag would go a month or more without being worn, which is too long to simply be carrying clothing on the road. This time, I plan to wear everything in my bag in the span of a week, and just wash what I wear every other day in the sinks (with my handy traveler's laundry soap sheets).

It's a new strategy in practise for me, but an old concept. I remember reading of the legend of the traveling woman in the black dress who carried no backpack. They say she washed her dress and underwear every night to have it ready and clean for a new day. Sounds pretty amazing to me, and I'd love to try that on my next adventure - after I stock up on Peruvian alpaca sweaters.
Now, to you dear reader, what's your strategy when packing your travel bag? Are you a notorious overpacker, prepared for every rift of inclement weather? Or do you bring less and adopt a more frequent washing cycle, as I'm going to try? Please share your tips and ideas as a comment here on the blog, or tweet your tips and ideas to me on twitter @expatkerri.

I'm already imagining all the beautiful things I will find in Granada and beyond. I guess I'm not ready to be a legend in a black dress just yet.

How I Book Cheap Flights

I fly.

A lot.

So I consider myself a kind of cheap flight finding guru, and I'm often asked by my friends how much a certain flight should cost, or how to know when you're getting a good deal. They ask what sites I use, and how far in advance to book flights. Here I'll share some of my flight booking philosophies, as well as some of my favourite websites for booking flights.

First, I remember reading something a while ago that said when you get on a flight, it's unlikely that anyone else paid the exact same price for their ticket as you did. That being said, there is always flexibility when it comes to buying plane tickets. It's important to browse early for flights you want to take. I also advise you to click the "my dates are flexible" button when checking flights, because sometimes there can be a large change in price just a day or two around your chosen date. Also remember that flights on weekends are usually much more expensive than weekday flights.

If you can handle the geeky details - which I love - check out this interesting article by Fare Compare which thoroughly explains why Wendesday is the cheapest day to fly for domestic flights in Canada and the USA.

Before you book your ticket, it's important to check more than one site. It's easy to just type your desired destination into Google and hope for the best, but you'll probably have more luck looking for flights directly on a few good sites. Browsing a few sites can show you a great variety in price and help you find a better flight.

Here are my personal choices:

1. Hipmunk - I haven't been using this site for long, but I fell in love at my first search. This site easily calculates all of the flights for your destination in seconds, without opening annoying new tabs or windows. You can easily browse through the flights to find the cheapest and most comfortable flight for you. I am currently booking a flight to Nicaragua to meet my dear friend Brenna, and I'm not looking to arrive too late in the evening, so I've organized the flights according to arrival time. The best part of this site is that all of your browsing and comparing and clicking happens in one page which helps keep your flight options organized and easy to compare.

 Organizing flights by "agony" is one of the best features of Hipmunk: price, flight time, and stopovers are all calculated together into overall convenience.

2. Skyscanner - I like using this site more for browsing than for booking, because of one special feature. This site, unlike others, allows you to search for flights going "everywhere", which really opens up travel possibilities for someone like me. I have vacation time here in Korea, and many cities and countries appeal to me, so sometimes the best way to choose where to go is to see where the cheap flights are.

 

It seems right now, the cheapest place I'd be interested in visiting from Seoul would be Philippines. Not bad at under $300 round trip...

3. FlightAware - Here is another site that I like to use to get ideas for where to fly. It's also a good site for learning all the destinations your favourite airlines fly to. My personal favourite airline is Korean Air (though I have an Asiana flight coming up on Tuesday about which I've heard only wonderful things). I've clicked "Live Flight Tracking" for all current Korean Air flights, and right now there are 55 flights operating.

I didn't realize Korean Air flew to Auckland. Good to know for the next winter break!

4.  Expedia - I've been using this site since I started flying regularly, way back in 2002 when I went away for university. It was one of the most useful sites for me back then, as I could compare flights and book all within the same site. Upon logging in, all of your details and cards are automatically filled in, which helps when you fly frequently. I've now used this site for domestic flights in Canada, overseas flights to Europe, as well as for booking flights in Asia.

 

The option to search for flights in "nearby cities" can be helpful when your travels are open, as mine usually are. 

5. Air Asia - This site and I have a good relationship, most of the time. I can usually book flights easily, but sometimes the site has internal errors which cause the page to close while waiting for a purchased flight to be confirmed, which is suuuper frustrating. This happened once when I was booking a ticket from Bangkok to Yangon, and after an hour of sweating and screaming I was able to book my desired flight. For booking flights in Asia, this site does offer some of the best deals I've seen, so I'm willing to put up with the occasional site errors to get a better deal.

One good point about Air Asia's site is that it shows you the flight differences for the dates surrounding your chosen date automatically, to help you tailor your dates to the best rates.

There you have it kids! My favourite sites and favourite ways to search for good flight deals. I hope I've given you some good ideas for sites to browse. 

Now I want to hear from you. What site do you visit first when you need to book a flight? Post your answers as a comment here, or directly tweet them to me on Twitter!

Now just to book that flight to Nicaragua...